While the word ‘safari’ conjures images of vast savannah plains scattered with herds of zebra or wildebeest keeping a watchful eye for nearby lions, huge swathes of the African continent are of course cloaked in dense, misty rainforests.
Home to many of the 1,100 mountain gorillas left in the wild, Uganda and Rwanda offer once-in-a-lifetime wildlife encounters within the prehistoric forests that ripple across the landscape – and both are shepherding an exciting new era for the region as travellers reimagine their African adventures.
Gorilla trekking and other great apes experiences are fixing themselves as bucket-list moments for many as the increased popularity of nature documentaries over the last three decades and a dynamic approach to conservation have allowed us to see these creatures in a new light, compelling us to connect with our closest relatives as few have before.
In the process, these nations once overlooked by the mainstream are now counted among ecotourism pioneers.
Kevin James, Chief Operating Officer at Volcanoes Safaris, joins us from his home in Kampala to discuss how he fell in love with East Africa, the importance of finding balance, and surprising parallels…
What inspired the founding of Volcanoes Safaris?
"Volcanoes Safaris was founded in 1997 with East Africa's landscapes and communities at the core of the vision.
"Praveen Moman, our founder, was born in Uganda but his family had to leave in the 1970s. So, it was really his aim to re-establish a connection to his homeland while also launching ecotourism focused on great apes in the area, creating sustainable opportunities for local people and conserving the local wildlife."
What were the early challenges in building lodges in this region?
"As you might expect, many logistical obstacles arose in the early days, including limited access to resources and labour due to the area’s history – both Uganda and Rwanda had recently emerged from periods of conflict and political unrest.
"It wouldn't always look like it would work. It was very much pioneering work that necessitated improvisation, and taking some calculated risks. Praveen had a lot invested, in a personal sense, in the success of his vision.
"We had to innovate with local materials and sustainable methods, striking the balance between luxury and environmental responsibility that remains core to our operations today."
Speaking of environmental responsibility, how does Volcanoes Safaris contribute to local conservation efforts?
"In 2009 Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust was established, which funds conservation and community projects through guest fees and donations. This non-profit supports the protection of gorillas and chimpanzees and improves local livelihoods by providing employment and skills training to nearby communities. We want to make sure there's a positive impact from conservation and tourism in the area.
"One example of this would be the Bwindi Bar. Opened by the trust in 2015 at [Volcanoes Safaris] Bwindi Lodge on the edge of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, it provides practical culinary, hospitality, and tourism training for local youths living around the park in Buhoma. After completing their training, the young people can go on to do internships at our other lodges if they wish to.
"The project has a positive impact on the community and gives our guests a wonderful opportunity to experience some of the local life around the park. The famous Uganda ‘rolex’ wrap and our Gorillini cocktail are among the favourites!”
What environmental concerns impact your conservation efforts?
"A key challenge is the pressure on small, isolated gorilla habitats due to the population growth in surrounding areas.
"These forests are tiny, fragmented remnants of what used to be larger, more connected forest areas. So, the question is how to protect these areas and the fragile population of mountain gorillas within them.
"Effective conservation requires balancing wildlife protection with local community needs. Mountain gorilla conservation over the last 30 years is seen as a global success – but due to the increasing human, development, and environmental pressures the next 30 years will be more challenging."
Do you see any downsides to increased ecotourism in these regions?
"Ecotourism is an important part of the conservation chain for gorillas and chimps. Without it, it would be questionable whether these habitats and wildlife would survive. But, overexposure poses risks, such as disease transmission to the animals.
"There are only 1,100 gorillas in existence, so the numbers are precarious and even something as simple as a common cold could be seriously detrimental. There are only a small number of permits allowed each day to see the gorillas and chimps. Ensuring visitors in the park follow strict health protocols is essential to ensure these populations remain safe and protected."
How do you define luxury within the context of Volcanoes Safaris?
"Our approach to luxury focuses on the wilderness and the landscapes and gives guests opportunities to meet and share experiences with people from local communities in a natural way, rather than the physical ‘objects’ and urban gadgets you get in every city hotel.
"The luxury and comfort at the lodges is not compromised but, again, it’s about getting the right balance: asking yourself what is in keeping within the context of the place you’re visiting. All our lodges are built by hand by local artisans using local materials, with the design and build process led by Praveen. Each lodge reflects local traditional building methods and showcases local craftsmanship and cultural sensitivity."
What makes Volcanoes Safaris unique among other safari companies?
"Our entire approach centres on local engagement and our hospitality model is inspired by ‘gushimisha’, a Rwandan concept meaning warmth and charm.
"We encourage our staff to provide a personal, welcoming experience rather than adopting rigid formalities, allowing their personalities to shine through and creating a genuine, memorable atmosphere for our guests. All our lodges are built by local craftspeople and run by people from Uganda and Rwanda, which not only sustains communities but also offers guests genuine cultural interactions.
"Of course, then there is our expertise in gorilla and chimpanzee safaris which enables us to offer exclusive, curated, and tailor-made experiences."
Why are people so drawn to experiences with great apes?
"People are often amazed at the human-like qualities of these primates. Observing their social interactions, you realise how closely related they are to us and seeing these creatures in their natural habitat brings conservation into a personal, immediate context for visitors.
"David Attenborough summed it up when he said, “No one will protect what they don't care about; and no one will care about what they have never experienced." If only everyone could have these close encounters with the world’s remarkable wildlife, perhaps then we’d all make more of an effort to sustain their existence."
Where is your favourite place to visit?
"I love hiking near the Virunga volcanoes [a chain of volcanoes in East Africa, in the area where Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), and Uganda meet].
"Near Mount Gahinga Lodge, on the Ugandan side of the Virunga volcanoes, there’s a unique gorilla family I’m particularly attached to, with a silverback named Mark, who just happens to be the same age as me. There are nine members in this particular family, and the youngest is a very mischievous four-year-old male called Ndiza. Amazingly, he is the exact same age as my son – they even share the same birthday!
"I look at this family and see the dad and son and the others and think, in a parallel universe, not very far away, we're looking at each other from the other perspective."
That is wonderful. And lastly, if you could pack your bags and go anywhere tomorrow, where would you go and who with?
"I’d like to see the bonobos in the Democratic Republic of Congo one day. With my family, now that my children are about old enough, I’d love to go back to the French Alps with them in the winter and have some fun snowboarding.”
If you could use a new perspective and want to explore Volcanoes Safaris' collection of lodges, contact our expert team of personal travel managers by calling 0203 318 6080 or submit an online enquiry today.
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